Presentations Overview

Coastal dunes, shaped by natural processes, particularly aeolian sediment transport, are dynamic environments where vegetation plays a pivotal role in trapping sediments, enabling dunes to reach substantial heights. However, the biomechanical traits of aboveground dune vegetation have received limit...

Modelling Nature

A series of large-scale experiments are conducted at HR Wallingford. Froude scaled tsunami waveforms are produced with periods (T) in the range of 40 – 230 s and wave amplitudes (a) between 0.03 - 0.14 m in water depths of 0.5 – 1.0 m.The waves propagate over a 1:30 sloping bathymetry that exten...

Tsunami hydrodynamics, impacts, and mitigation

Wave overtopping is not easy to measure in real field situations. A 12-years long program started in 2018 to measure wind, wave and water level conditions in a complex estuary, together with wave overtopping measurements at dikes. Wave and water level conditions are measured directly in front of the...

Infragravity waves

The decomposition of the water level into incident and reflected wave components is usually a necessary step in numerical or flume studies, as most design variables (overtopping, run-up) are linked to the incoming wave characteristics. Thus, utilizing an appropriate wave reflection analysis is criti...

Laboratory technologies, measurement systems

Prior to the adoption of tsunami-specific design considerations in ASCE 7-16, research extensively examined tsunami debris transport and debris impact forces. Tsunami debris damming remains significantly less explored, with limited transient flow experiments conducted on this topic. Herein, 1:20 sca...

Tsunami hydrodynamics, impacts, and mitigation

Live-bed scale models of estuaries have long been impossible due to unwanted scale effects. Especially generating tidal flows and sufficient sediment mobility as in estuaries proved challenging, in contrast with meandering and braided river scale experiments where gradient could be increased to obta...

Combined physical and numerical modelling

In the design of physical model experiments in coastal engineering, it is common that the construction of a foreshore is necessary to obtain the desired wave conditions at a given location, usually close to a structure being tested. Since the construction of foreshores is labour intensive (and thus ...

Combined physical and numerical modelling

Submerged coastal structures modify incident wave fields and alter nearshore processes. Existing research indicates that our understanding of hydrodynamics and sediment transport resulting from wave-reef interactions is still incomplete. Here we present the findings of an extensive set of wave basin...

Coastal and ocean structures, breakwaters, revetments

Hydraulic structures are essential for flood protection, water management and navigation in coastal, delta and lake regions. Their importance will continue to grow in the coming years, because of two main factors. Firstly, because of the consequences of climate change and sea level rise. Secondly, b...

Wave-structure interactions, loading, response

This study presents an experimental proof-of-concept for an innovative floating system designed to harness solar energy in coastal regions. The concept leverages the combination of two distinct elements: a double-axis solar tracker, maximizing solar energy generation, and a tension-leg platform (TLP...

Coastal and ocean structures, breakwaters, revetments

Laboratory technologies, measurement systems

This study generalizes SWAN model capabilities for free infragravity (IG) waves based on a new collection of measurements over the southern part of the North Sea. As a first step, existing SWAN model capabilities for free IG are generalized to unstructured grids. In contrast to the common nesting ap...

Infragravity waves

A modification to the Keofloat system has been developed to address the effect that rotation about its vertical axes may have on the measurement accuracy of the system. The effect of rotation was found to rarely occur for some three-dimensional models. Consequently, the Keofloat design was modified ...

Coastal and ocean structures, breakwaters, revetments

Transient rip currents transport material between the surf zone and the inner shelf. During directionally spread wave conditions, waves break in finite-length regions, generating vorticity near crest ends. Energy associated with the injected vorticity may be transferred to larger scale eddies that e...

Coastal hydrodynamics, coastal processes

A physical experiment was performed to seek an empirical equation predicting the wave force acting on the upper surface of the pavement behind the revetment parapet due to wave overtopping as well as the uplift force acting on the underlayer of the pavement induced by the wave pressure passing throu...

Coastal and ocean structures, breakwaters, revetments