Presentations Overview

Infragravity (IG) waves are low-frequency waves (0.0033 Hz < f < 0.05 Hz) that become important or even dominant compared to the sea-swell waves at the toe of a dike on a very or extremely shallow foreshore, therefore becoming important to the wave overtopping process. This paper presents the field ...

This study generalizes SWAN model capabilities for free infragravity (IG) waves based on a new collection of measurements over the southern part of the North Sea. As a first step, existing SWAN model capabilities for free IG are generalized to unstructured grids. In contrast to the common nesting ap...

Seminal work of Stokes, based on linear wave theory, suggest that there is a net forward drift in the fluid beneath a propagating surface wave. However, a recent work supported by field measurements suggest that in many cases, particularly in waves propagating over a shear flow, either a net forward...

Wave overtopping is not easy to measure in real field situations. A 12-years long program started in 2018 to measure wind, wave and water level conditions in a complex estuary, together with wave overtopping measurements at dikes. Wave and water level conditions are measured directly in front of the...

Infragravity waves are surface waves with relatively longer periods in comparison to periods of the spectrum-dominant gravity waves. They are characterized by oscillations between 20 and 300 seconds (0.0033 Hz < f < 0.05 Hz), amplitudes that range from a few millimeters to tens of centimeters, and w...